Riffs on traditional and national costume, specifically the reemergence of the vyshyvanka dress, was a popular trend in the past few seasons in Ukraine. At one point, pieces such as the vyshyvanka were ubiquitous on runways and on the street, but they’ve since faded from both. In fact, there were almost no ethnic motifs on the runway this season, except in clothes from the label Bezva by Svetlana Bevza. The designer held her presentation in the Ivan Honchar Museum, having became inspired by its archive of antique Ukrainian clothing. There, she discovered the khustka, a traditional head covering that was popular in 19th-century Ukraine and was considered a measure of wealth.
Adding an unexpected and refreshing post-Soviet edge to the historical piece, Bevza combined the heavily patterned shawls with silhouettes that were trendy in ’90s Ukraine. The juxtaposition was great: A granny dress received a jolt of vibrant color thanks to the different combinations of khustka patterns. Bevza is also one of the few labels here that produces quality accessories. Shiny black bags were made to look like glossy, plastic grocery packets that were once considered stylish and were saved by women. It’s nice to see a designer breathe new life into trends once considered passé while finding updated ways to pay homage to her culture.
