Kohichi Watanabe and Ryutaro Kishi are rare Tokyo Fashion Week participants who have mastered the art of the digital fashion show, choosing venues that are best showcased via their artfully created videos. This season was no exception, as the pair showed their spring collection in a film that was beautifully shot at the Kyoto International Conference Center in the historic city, where their brand Rainmaker is based. Models walked among the building’s modern interior, its mossy gardens, and a series of interlocking piers that form a hashtag-like shape over the pond on the center’s grounds.
The look: The designers showed elegant, tailored pieces in relaxed-fitting shapes for a look that was refined and stylish, without being too formal for everyday wear. The palette consisted of various shades of indigo, aubergine and sage green, but despite the occasional bright red belt or shocking pink socks, textiles were largely neutral and timeless. Suits for both men and women were made up of collarless jackets and pintuck trousers, and were often paired with botanical print shirts and a modern version of traditional Japanese zori sandals. Ribbed, V-neck knits and loose shorts for men provided more casual options.
Standout pieces: Watanabe and Kishi stand out not only with their soft tailoring, but with their subtle incorporation of traditional elements. Layering loose trousers under long shirts called to mind the dress of Buddhist monks, while some coats had kimono-style collars and were closed with belts layered over silk scarves in the same way obi are usually worn.
Takeaway: With its rich colors, beautiful textiles and easy shapes, Watanabe and Kishi’s latest offering solidified Rainmaker’s status as a Japanese brand to watch. Their expert tailoring and subtle nods to traditional Kyoto culture are likely to appeal to shoppers in Tokyo as well as overseas.
