Ever the philosopher, Fumito Ganryu chose the concept of homeostasis as the theme for his latest offering. “In the 21st century, we can share things with others virtually. I wanted to create clothes that are nothing and everything, that can make an equilibrium. That is the kind of age that we are living in,” Ganryu said in an interview at his Tokyo showroom.
While the designer’s interpretation of his concept runs deep through his own thoughts, the way it manifests itself in his collection is in many cases quite straightforward. A lover of sports and the outdoors, he said he aims to create fashion that motivates; clothes that allow people to look good even while engaging in strenuous activities. To that end, he incorporated into the collection a variety of tech fabrics, unconventional cutting techniques and shapes that allow for ease of movement. Many of the pieces have a duality to them.
A cotton and polyester sponge knit fabric combines two contrasting colors — purple with orange or blue with yellow — that from a distance look completely different, even resembling gray at a glance. Ganryu used the material to create joggers and hoodies, which when zipped open under the arms can be converted into ponchos. Easy-care shirts have fleece sleeves or camouflage vest panels, while voluminous down puffer jackets and MA-1 bombers have pocket-like slits that are actually arm holes for wearing them as ponchos.
Perhaps Ganryu’s most innovative and multifunctional piece of the season is his sleeping bag that, when zipped together in the right way, becomes a hip-length jacket in the front, with a longer, poncho-like back.
“I like to camp, and I spend a lot of time in nature, and there are times when you need a sleeping bag,” the designer said. “But camping requires so much stuff and bringing a sleeping bag is just one more annoyance, so I thought, what if you could just wear it instead?” It is an idea that is so simple in its brilliance that it’s a wonder it hasn’t already become mainstream.