Streetwear and mystery rarely go hand in hand, but Bodysong offers a fashionable riddle. Founded by Shunsuke Aoki in 2012, the brand currently credits an anonymous designer, and while there’s no telling who is controlling things behind the scenes, it’s clear they’re doing something right. A series of high-profile accolades, including last year’s Tokyo Fashion Award win, has helped to push the label into the spotlight, regardless of whether or not its creators want notoriety.
Spring saw the brand focused on refining its recurring motifs; extreme plays on proportion, statement denim, and patch-worked patterns all featured prominently. Aoki’s irreverent vision could be seen in the offbeat juxtapositions—utility vests paired with quilted sleeves fit for a Regency ballgown and cricket sweaters stretched until they resemble knit dresses.
Despite the familiar concepts, change was in the air. Prints took on a new significance with the tie-dye patterns and celebrity imagery of seasons past replaced with wittier fare. The lush leopard and lion print that tapped into multiple trends was rendered comic by the addition of the words “print preview” stamped across multiple panels. Cropped trousers bearing phrases like “yes I’m very tired now” and compass roses kept the off-kilter feel going, as did the extreme logo placement that saw models stomp through Shibuya Hikarie carrying a giant mirrored letter B. Though things ended on a subdued note with a bucket hat and an artfully rumpled metallic suit, the collection was at its best when it was weird and wonderful.