Building on a theme is a luxury young designers are rarely afforded, but 5-Knot’s Ena Kizawa and Taketo Nishino proved themselves the exception to the rule, using their Fall collection to expand on a favorite reference point. After Spring’s ode to the costal beauty of Nazaré, the duo chose another chic Portuguese destination for their latest offering. “Óbidos is kind of an ancient city, very beautiful and very European,” shared Nishino postshow. “A lot of the textiles and colors that we used throughout were inspired by there.” Looking to a medieval former Roman settlement might mean a collection steeped in tradition, but Kizawa and Nishino kept things modern, doubling down on their pattern-heavy layering and textual experimentation.
With Tokyo’s waterfront serving as a backdrop, models waltzed out wearing eclectic layers with a vibrancy typically reserved for the warmer months. A typical look was a jacquard bomber jacket over a plaid maxi dress and glossy contrast-stitch trench. Unexpected details are where Kizawa and Nishino shine, and there was no shortage of them; putting fur on the heels of neon floral boots, covering corsetry with a layer of down jacket–inspired quilting, and hiding tiny fanny packs beneath furs, they worked in a variety of elements, some more successful than others. Logo-covered knit stoles made a statement while providing a twist on a trend that has become ubiquitous, but unwieldy add-ons such as bright rubber gloves and tassels served as a distraction. Of course, overwrought styling is easily remedied, and, beneath the excess, there was plenty to enjoy.
