Last season, Filippa Knutsson, who had stepped away from the day-to-day running of the business that bears her name, staged a comeback with a runway show inspired by the 1990s, the decade of the brand’s debut. For Spring, the designer underlined her presence by choosing the company’s very first boutique as the location of her show. “It’s part of this whole movement of coming home,” explained Knutsson, who succeeded in creating the relaxed and celebratory atmosphere she was after. A ravenous fashion pack set upon the pizza and wine offered in one room, and visually devoured the collection in another. Later, the models mingled with guests on the street outside the shop.
Welcoming ease describes both Knutsson’s hospitality and collection. “For me,” the designer said, “Filippa K is about a certain style and aesthetic”; that core is filtered for the season and evolved to incorporate what feels right at the moment. This time the collection developed around a palette of natural tones, “safari beiges,” and pastels, added to which were contrasts of textures (silky versus rough) and structure (flow versus tailoring); ergo a soft shirt might be paired with linen shorts, a sweater with a slip skirt. The men’s looks were preppier than those for women, and many could segue seamlessly from the office to a weekend by the beach. A color-blocked suede jacket was the most fashion-y piece.
