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Elie Saab

Resort 2024 RTW

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Properties

Date: June 19, 2023
Location: Paris, France
Looks: 54
Brand: Elie Saab
URL: wwd.com

Critic Reviews

By Lily Templeton for WWD

If Elie Saab’s initial feminine ideal for the resort season was Marella Agnelli Caracciolo, the late elegant Italian photographer, textile designer and art collector dubbed “The Last Swan” by Truman Capote, the couturier was quick to add that he wanted to “touch [all] the women of the Mediterranean,” a group that he defined less as an origin than a mindset.

“Let’s be honest, [it’s] simply the most beautiful part of the world — don’t get mad if you’re from elsewhere,” he joked. But despite his attachment to the region, he wanted to break away from the idea of resort as a warm-weather exercise.

Given that his client is global and can find herself in winter at one moment and, within days, in the opposite season by being in the other hemisphere, he said touching all seasons rather than a range of occasions was a cannier choice.

Cue a three-part articulation that went from a sober and structured opener representing colder climes and a business-focused wardrobe hinging on lightweight yet structured coats, smart tweed separates and chic jumpsuits in bold black, white and red; segued into a more romantic direction in crisp lilac and white cottons, and ended with warm-weather glamour with flowing floral kaftans, gradient gowns and embroidered numbers.

Among the standouts were a crisp poplin blouse and matching skirt with a lick of lace, a white and gold knit dress in a sunburst pleated style that would look smashing on a wide range of body types and most of all the structured looks, particularly a black belted duster and a gradient pantsuit.

Along with new shoes and a duo of bag shapes introduced this season, they brought out a fresh and smart angle that will have the Saab client coming for work as well as for play.

By Tina Isaac-Goizé for Vogue

Elie Saab dubbed his resort 2024 collection The Swan in honor of the original specimen, Marella Agnelli. “I never knew her, unfortunately, but I know her grandson and lots of people who were around her,” the designer said over Zoom from his home base in Beirut.

“She was a woman of rare style who left her mark on fashion with chic and lots of class. I’ve always been inspired by her allure and aristocratic poise.” From where he stands, he added, that kind of Italian elegance and art de vivre radiates all around the Mediterranean, touching a broad swath of his base.

Saab approached resort in three chapters, moving from an urban, structured mood to “more amusing” and, lastly, romantic pieces. While the collection could be neatly defined by a silk kaftan in pink-to-mauve ombré with a jeweled-brooch closure, other offerings—such as a plunging ecru knit dress with gold-edged pleating—likewise could suit most any type of morphology.

Saab has been leaning in on daywear of late. Here he showed off his tailoring skills with peplum tops and jackets in “moon shadow” white crepe, a sharp black trench, or a cherry red tweed jacket with matching shorts. A white cotton shirt-kaftan with guipure reprising the brand’s insignia looked crisp and summery.

Nighttime, however, is where the designer’s heart is. Party rompers, beaded strapless midi-dresses, and gold lamé halter tops kept company with curve-hugging black jersey dresses outlined with gold chains or quintessential, floaty gala gowns in sage green, aquamarine, or magenta. Even the embroideries the designer favors seemed restrained, cropping up in pale pink flowers and green stems on a bustier gown or a gold flower placement on a single-breasted midnight blue overcoat. Whether for day or night, the simplest looks were the strongest.

The resort collection, the designer noted, is “for women who travel, but with the same codes in a different way.” By the time this review is live, those customers will have a shiny new Elie Saab outpost to check out in Monte Carlo. That will be soon followed by another in Sao Paolo—just two instances of the brand‘s fresh push toward new horizons.