Elie Saab went for a lighter, fresher take on his über-goddess look for summer, ditching extravagant embellishments in favor of delicate embroideries, crisp cottons, romantic broderie anglaise, and handcrafted crochets. “I was just in the mood for something easy to wear, airy like a summer breeze,” he said, waxing poetic backstage.
The attitude he wanted to convey was “relaxed, joyful, confident but gentle.” To that end, he started the collection with a flow of immaculate white ensembles, fresh and attractive, to which textured surfaces added a delicate visual impact. A gardenia-white midriff-baring brassière and matching slim ankle-grazing wrap skirt were hand crocheted in rosette motifs, while a sporty hoodie in flimsy chantilly lace embroidered with sequins was a counterintuitive proposition, yet it looked appealing paired with a sheer, flowy long skirt. On the same note, a fitted-bodice long slipdress was exquisitely rendered in pristine, snow-white broderie anglaise.
As the saying goes, a leopard can’t change its spots, and you can’t take the flamboyance and sense of drama out of the Lebanese designer. Albeit toned down, his love for elaborate embellishments and a grand entrance resurfaced in a series of fitted tulle dresses with delicately intricate floral appliqués, as well as in regal, billowy sweeping numbers, resplendent in vibrant hues of emerald green, coral and iris: not a viable option to fly under the radar, really. But that certainly wasn’t the intention of the front row at today’s show. Looking invisible has never been an appealing prospect to Monica Bellucci, Eva Longoria and Olivia Palermo, or for the crowd of dressed-to-the nines, glamorous Saab clients.
