Look 1
Look 2
Look 3
Look 4
Look 5
Look 6
Look 7
Look 8
Look 9
Look 10
Look 11
Look 12
Look 13
Look 14
Look 15
Look 16
Look 17
Look 18
Look 19
Look 20
Look 21
Look 22
Look 23
Look 24
Look 25
Look 26
Look 27
Look 28
Look 29
Look 30
Look 31
Look 32
Look 33
Look 34
Look 35
Look 36
Look 37
Look 38

Coperni

Spring 2023 RTW

--
Critic Score
No Reviews
--
Consumer Score
No Reviews

Consumer Reviews

There are no consumer reviews yet. Try submitting one above.

Properties

Date: October 1, 2022
Location: Paris, France
Looks: 38
Brand: Coperni
URL: wwd.com

Critic Reviews

By Joelle Diderich for WWD

Earlier this year, Bella Hadid was scanned in 3D to create her CY-B3LLA range of NFTs, sending out 11,111 digital versions of herself in the metaverse.

On Friday, the model walked onto a runway in Paris wearing nothing but a thong and stepped onto a podium, where two men proceeded to spray her with a chemical solution, gradually covering her naked body in a white layer. Welcome to the world’s first live-action spray-on dress.

Technology and fashion have always been uneasy bedfellows, but if anyone can make science sexy, then it’s Coperni designers Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer, who partnered with Manel Torres, the inventor of the Spray-on fabric, for the performance.

The geekery didn’t end there. The designers recorded a video of a flower blossoming, and used it to print layers on lenticular fabric to create a hologram. Dresses made from the fabric appeared in the collection and on Kylie Jenner, who sat in the front row.

Backstage before the show, the married couple, who finish each other’s sentences, said: “It’s an homage to women in general, and the evolution of the morphology and the body through centuries.”

A jacket attached to the back of a dress subtly alluded to the crinolines of the past, yet Vaillant and Meyer are clearly more interested in the future. Outfits with boxy power shoulders were inspired by the block-shaped avatars on game platform Roblox, while a clingy dress with a slashed neckline was a nod to the woman in the red dress in “The Matrix.”

Stripping out all the sci-fi stuff, there were plenty of wearable clothes in the lineup, which checked this season’s trend for boudoir styles, with outfits like negligees pulled diagonally over one shoulder, and paired smashing tailored pants with cropped versions of the bomber jacket, the trenchcoat and the corduroy jacket.

Following the success of their handblown glass Swipe handbag last season, Arnaud and Vaillant imagined a version made with one kilogram of 18-karat gold, which will be melted down after the show. Likewise, Hadid’s dress can be dissolved and the material reused.

“You can recreate a dress infinitely,” Meyer marveled. Will clothes eventually come in a can? Will recycling textiles take on a whole new meaning? Beyond the wow factor of watching Hadid walk down the runway in her instant dress, the show raised all kinds of fascinating questions about how technology will change the way we clothe ourselves not only in the virtual world, but IRL.

By Luke Leitch for Vogue

Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant delivered one of the fashion moments of the season tonight: almost certainly it’s already going viral. The whole process lasted around seven minutes and came at the end of a show that had already given plenty of great runway. Highlights had included dresses made in a thousand pieces of embroidered glass that tinkled uproariously, like a recycling truck driven by an amphetamine-addled getaway driver. There was a solid gold version of the designers’ Swipe bag which—all 1kg of it—will be melted down after the show. It was created by an artisan goldsmith named Gabriele Veneri in Italy, and was accompanied by a considerable security retinue.

Especially lovable were the dresses in panels connected by a sort of brutal metal suture. Then there were the new, specially-developed Roblox-inspired shoulders that looked sometimes like the models were wearing cereal boxes but also seemed a valid shot at a silhouette-shifting development. Other pieces saw bra cups reinterpreted as shoulder pads. These were just a few of the ideas in a collection that boasted a cornucopia of them. One less spectacular touch, nicely illustrative of their frame of reference, was the red dress designed to reflect Fiona Johnson’s sexy glitch gown in The Matrix.

The collection was named Coperni Femme, after their very first collection back in 2015: it was an ode to a reconfigured paradigm of femininity. The opening references to crinoline, replacing its constricting hoops with a Trinity-esque biker jacket slung at the back of a tailored jacket, implied the flavor of radical upgrade the designers were after.

That closing look laid it out in full. Bella Hadid came out in her underwear, arm across her bosom, and stood on an underlit platform. What followed was down, Vaillant said, to “our little geek” Meyer’s specific obsession with cutting edge technology. A scientist Meyer had befriended named Dr. Manel Torres came out with a colleague and proceeded to spray the near-naked Hadid from neckline to mid-calf with a white substance that looked a bit like spray snow. When it hit her skin it had the sheen of liquid, but in the few minutes of its application it became matte. The smell, strong and synthetic, filled the Musée des Arts et Métiers’ Salle des Textiles. Hadid kept her poise during the spray-down, before one of Meyer and Vaillant’s colleagues came out and spent a minute cutting at the hem and tugging at the shoulder of the layer of who-knows-what that covered the model.

And then Hadid walked the runway in a pure white dress—perfectly fitted—that until five minutes ago had been liquid in a bottle: fashion alchemy, conjured by Coperni.