If his spring women’s collection for Givenchy saw Matthew Williams more openly embracing French chic, the designer remains very much an American in Paris.
The label’s pre-fall lineup reflected his trans-Atlantic take on the house founded by Hubert de Givenchy in 1952, with a mix of sharp tailoring, sleek eveningwear and sporty casuals that mirrored the eclectic tastes of today’s luxury customer.
Some might be in the market for a cropped black jean jacket and baggy pant that were faded and distressed for a Y2K vibe. Others might opt for a black cocktail dress with rhinestone-embellished circular cutouts at the chest and hip, similar to the embroidery details on the custom Givenchy design that Adele wore recently during her Las Vegas residency.
Or why not have it both ways? An oversize white tuxedo jacket was paired with shredded cargo shorts, mirroring Williams’ own approach to high-low dressing. “I wear blazers with kind of formal technical pants or denim sometimes,” he said, noting he also likes a tuxedo lapel in the day. “That’s how I really enjoy wearing tailoring, so it’s really exploring that.”
The founder of the 1017 Alyx 9SM label is as passionate about denim washes as he is about hardware details, meaning that even his streetwear looks are always razor-sharp.
“That’s actually in the DNA of Hubert as well. He spoke a lot about using the most humble fabrics to create dresses, or the most opulent, but nothing in between. I think it’s interesting, that clash of two extremes and finding tension in those spaces,” Williams said.
With their mismatched patterns and injection of flamboyant color, his men’s looks were a teaser for his upcoming menswear show in January, rife with references to Americana such as plaid shirts, varsity-style sweatshirts and workwear jackets, including a black leather version with the Givenchy name spelled out in metal studs.
On the women’s side, Williams is beefing up the eveningwear offer, with styles ranging from an ‘80s-inspired eau de Nil bustier dress, ruched at the back and topped with a big satin bow, and a Gen Z-friendly black midi dress with a deep sweetheart neckline and graphic rhinestone embellishment.
“What’s so beautiful about the brand is that it speaks to so many people, like an older gentleman, an older woman, a younger teenager,” Williams said. “There is something for everyone.”
