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Courrèges

Fall 2023 RTW

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Properties

Date: March 1, 2023
Location: Paris, France
Looks: 44
Brand: Courrèges
URL: wwd.com

Critic Reviews

By Joelle Diderich for WWD

Nicolas Di Felice’s fall collection for Courrèges was all smoke and mirrors. The smoke was pumped from vents in the floor of the venue, a white box in tune with the label’s Space Age roots, while the show invitation was a mirrored disc that turned out to be a teaser for this circle-centric lineup.

The label has been gaining traction under Di Felice’s stewardship, and you could feel it in this season’s more headline-grabbing approach. There was Emily Ratajkowski on the runway; Julia Fox, Tyga, Avril Lavigne and Lisa Rinna in the front row; and dresses and tops emblazoned with giant Courrèges logos.

One of them ran the length of a black column gown, the letter “o” carved out and replaced with a giant mirrored pendant — a leitmotif that recurred on monochrome A-line dresses, tailored coats, crop tops and leather jackets that featured either scooped necklines or cutouts where the piece of jewelry sat.

“I love a circle: it’s really Courrèges,” the designer said backstage. “There is no beginning and no end.” While no doubt eye-catching on the runway, it did beg the question of how the outfits would look minus the clunky hardware.

There were plenty more pragmatic options on offer, not least a plethora of outerwear. Di Felice used tilted sleeves as decoration on mannish overcoats, biker jackets and hoodies, with models poking their arms through side slits instead. The cut was designed to accentuate the curved posture of people absorbed with their phones, a point he underlined by having some models carry theirs on the runway.

Gradually, these screen-obsessed city dwellers gave way to a partygoing crowd in sheer maxi sheaths with quirky cutouts at the navel, and skin-baring jersey tops and dresses draped from silver hoops.

For the silvery finale looks, the mirrored pendants were placed over the solar plexus, reflecting the beam of a single spotlight. “The collection is from the light of the screen to your inner light,” Di Felice said.

The designer has made festive community a central theme of his tenure at Courrèges, a strategy that has drawn a loyal following of celebrities including Dua Lipa, Rosalía and Bella Hadid. So far, that approach has been backed by a focus on product, which the brand will hopefully keep up even as it seeks to tap a wider audience.

By Nicole Phelps for Vogue

Emerging from the fog, the first model at Courrèges stared down at the phone in her hands, her face lit up by its LED screen. Nicolas di Felice has been thinking about all the time that we spend on our devices. The hoodie the model wore was hunched forward, its volume sort of flattened, and di Felice cut armhole slits into the front, for easier access. There was a leather motorcycle jacket, a tweed coat, and a vinyl caban cut the same way.

Di Felice is on his phone as much as the next guy, he admitted. But watching his friends text when they’re sitting at opposite ends of a bar on a night out, rather than walking over to each other for a chat, he realized that our pocket-sized computers are changing more than our postures, they’re changing our lives. “I don’t judge,” he said, “but I question it, and I wanted to try to reflect on it. To help him do so, a Siri-like AI voice on the soundtrack kept asking, “Is the sky blue? Is the sky blue?” If you open your weather app in the morning instead of looking out the window, she was talking to you.

There’s a lot of heat around Courrèges. Di Felice excels at the kind of body-baring clothes young women today respond to. Last season looked like the morning after a long night at Burning Man, the girls carrying their sandals in their hands; this season, they’re headed to the office on the metro, in shades of black and gray, and even pinstripes, although in nothing as conventional as your standard pantsuit. Tunics with huge circular pendants suspended from portholes on the chest replaced jackets. They were cut in the same general proportions as the ’60s-ish A-line shifts that followed them.

As the show progressed, the black and gray gave way to red and pink, and the straight lines to soft, sexy drapes suspended from wire necklaces, including one or two with the house logo, the collection’s single off note. The final series of dresses came in silver or iridescent sequins accessorized by those mirrored pendants, right over the solar plexus. With the help of a spotlight, it looked like they were emanating energy, the phone’s LED replaced in the end by inner light. “The sky is blue,” the AI voice finally concluded. “Do you see me? I see you.”