Kolor designer Junichi Abe turned inside out this season with his usual playful takes on placement.
The Japanese designer calls his method the “new minimalism.” In reality it’s anything but: There’s a level of decadence in his intricate work that pulls from varsity, Western, midcentury prints, classic tweeds and of course unusual color pairings in his complicated constructions.
He moves in tactile ways, he said speaking backstage after the show. In his workshop he takes a piece of fabric, moves it around and plays with it until it finds the right home. As a result the lining of a coat is on the outside, blazers are flipped backward, the brand’s tag is central on a lapel.
Abe takes these tiny touches that are usually hidden or don’t have a lot of meaning to the wearer and brings them to the forefront.
He also loves to leave things askew. Collars on sweaters are twisted or fold slightly aside so placement is just a little “off,” but nothing is unintentional. Voluminous cuffs button up for an updated take on the oversized Victorian sleeve, and a trenchcoat with patches in muted tones serves as a contrast to a bright red blazer, or surprising pops of color such as orange gloves.
Materials are imagined in new ways, including trenchcoats repurposed as skirts. Accessories also incorporated his fold concept, with mixed materials such as green and tan sneakers accented with tiny spikes and loops.
His love of layers adds other levels of interest. One memorable look brought together a short jacket, over a blazer, over a sweater, over a dress, but with his strong tailoring it felt elegant and not overwhelming.
The collection stays true to Abe’s philosophy: “Minimalism is not just to cut, cut, cut, it’s about silhouette. Minimalism is complex.”
