Hed Mayner’s elegant fall collection was full of sartorial looks — especially jackets — with a twist.
“We reworked the silhouettes, [trying] to use these oversized silhouettes and shrink them down to create new [ones] that are more like a second skin,” he explained.
Some of the form-fitting garments, like the gray double-breasted jacket over a white, asymmetric oxford shirt, became more voluminous due to the layering. Also highly tailored were the black tuxedo and long checkered overcoat, although its super-wide shoulders eschewed tradition.
Numerous jackets’ shoulders were sharp, but most came rounded. That was the case for the trailing faux fur brown coat and roomy, belted camel-colored trench.
High-waisted black leather trousers were baggy, while a cropped suit jacket had oversized sleeves.
“It’s really about exaggerating, but still remaining with very classic pieces,” said Mayner.
He continued: “We’ve worked on different treatments, making the clothes look like they’ve been found somewhere — not necessarily like a designer product, but something that you accidentally found,” he said. “And you’re very happy to discover it.”
That was, indeed, true of this strong collection.
Textiles Mayner fashioned were bonded, washed, cut, pressed or otherwise destroyed to get an aged look. He also worked nylon-stocking fabric into hugging shirts, balaclavas and leggings.
Since much of the fabric used had a traditional British accent, his color codes for fall skewed a bit darker than in seasons past, including hues such as olive green, navy and brown.
Rounding out the line, and with the something-old-and-something-new take, were sneakers the designer created with Reebok. Mayner revised the brand’s Classic Leather model, washing and bending it into a new shape, just like he did with his clothes.
