The invitation for Mike Amiri’s fall collection was a miniature record player loaded with a track by legendary hip-hop producer DJ Premier — presumably so guests could try their luck at scratching out their own beat.
Fortunately, the man himself was on hand to perform with The Badder Band at the Paris Fashion Week event, setting the tone for a nostalgic stroll through the ‘90s, when the music coming out of New York City was captivating teenagers nationwide.
Amiri began his career in Los Angeles crafting stage pieces for rock ‘n’ roll performers. He fused that taste for glitz with his signature slouchy tailoring, adding sparkle via crystal-embellished knits, and sequined shirt-and-pant sets that provided a glamorous alternative to the tuxedo. “Formal doesn’t really mean ‘suit’ anymore. It means a thoughtful pairing,” he said backstage.
In terms of fabrications, the lineup rivaled that of many leading European luxury houses. Texture was key, with innovations including a croc-embossed tie-dye leather jacket and pants; fuzzy cargo pants, and hairy suits made from reverse weave silk that mimicked the look of fur. Accessories included newsboy caps, chunky skate sneakers and bags shaped like vinyl records.
Amiri, who is of Iranian descent, signaled his solidarity with the female-led anti-government protests in Iran by taking his bow in a T-shirt with the slogan: “Woman Life Freedom.” It was a powerful move from a designer who’s fast expanding his global reach.
He plans to open a store in Chicago this year and is scouting for locations in London and Paris.
“Our stores are opening on the same streets as many of the heritage houses and I’m inspired by people like Tom Ford, who have put their name out there and found his place as an American within global luxury, just by being assertive and true to who he is,” said Amiri, who doubles as chief executive officer and creative director of his company.
“And I think for us, it’s kind of following along those footsteps of really coming and presenting something of that caliber, regardless of being from Los Angeles or the U.S., but on a global stage really being able to stand among the best,” he added.
With this slick show, Amiri not only conjured his past, but gave a glimpse of his future.
