The pandemic put the break on Berlin-based 032c’s place on the Paris schedule for a couple of seasons, but the edgy label was back in town and is planning to scale up to a runway format in June.
The starting point for this collection was creative director Maria Koch’s mother, who at nearly 80 just got her first tattoo — a square, circle and triangle design as well as a seven-legged spider. That and a notion of Kierkegaard’s — that consequences are more important than intentions.
The former provided certain graphic elements in the lineup, like logos that popped up here and there, but more important, said Koch, was the relevance of the silhouette. It was a game of contrasts, between super-slouchy outsized tailoring, for example in a burnished gray velvet, and close to the body designs for both boys and girls.
“I want to see the body again,” Koch explained.
There were shearling jackets with subtly ruched sleeve details and waxed cotton tailoring with a washed-out effect. Among the quirkier pieces, a pale yellow flared skirt in slightly translucent velvet started below the knee, attached with a harness and paired with a matching leather micro-mini, complete with a zip-up crotch.
