Lamine Badian Kouyaté worked primarily with brightly colored, opaque nylon for this body-hugging, sporty collection that harkens back to his brand’s roots. “It’s modern and synthetic — fabric that can really last,” he said of nylon, which he often uses as upcycled scraps, to a patchwork effect. “It’s a whole process I work with since the beginning.”
The look: Badian Kouyaté opted to have fewer garments in his collection this season, so as to focus on Xuly Bët’s DNA: form-fitting pieces, which he called “timeless — and a bit of fun.” For spring, stitching is left apparent. “Every stitch is a story,” explained the designer, who wanted to give women freedom of movement with the garments. “It comes first of all from love,” he said of fashion-making. “I’m trying to make people happy.”
Quote of note: “This collection is like a new start, like at the beginning…getting back to the source, the essence of Xuly Bët,” Badian Kouyaté said.
Standout pieces: The knee-length, black, off-the-shoulder dress embellished with red Xuly Bët labels. An ensemble featuring a lime green shirt and bright blue trousers with red stitching overlayed with a sleeveless, V-neck dress.
Takeaway: Badian Kouyaté can adroitly make his fashion simultaneously sporty, sexy and playful. His film for the season, directed by Leïla Sy, entitled “East Side Story,” channels the designer’s focus on the power of love.
