A lot of expectations rested on Charles de Vilmorin’s runway debut for Rochas. The 24-year-old designer was one of the finalists for this year’s edition of the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, and last week launched as part of Gucci’s new online concept store Vault. In just 18 months, he’s become one of the rising stars of Paris fashion, with many comparing his precocious talent and ethereal looks to a young Yves Saint Laurent.
The look: De Vilmorin’s swirly, fantastical drawings were all over the collection, while his flame-colored sketches obscured the windows and mirrors of the venue, the opulent 19th-century town house formerly owned by American philanthropist Mona von Bismarck. The vibe? The club kids have taken over the house. Embroidered platform shoes and slouchy boots with jutting side ruffles threatened to distract from the clothes.
Quote of note: “The Rochas universe is more sophisticated and feminine. We tried to bring in a touch of techno, a manga spirit. I’m giving it my own spin.”
Key pieces: Maxi-length dresses, coats and skirts printed with oversize drawings in primary colors; sculptural ruffles framing a pleated metallic dress, cascading down a black evening gown cut shorter in front, and protruding from the sleeves of a white T-shirt top; leather separates including snap-button shirts and a long wrap skirt, and drawstring-gathered cotton skirts and shirtdresses.
Takeaway: De Vilmorin said he wanted the show to convey “a Parisian sense of elegance,” in keeping with the history of the house, but it was hard to see any link between this punky lineup and the couture-inspired creations of his predecessor Alessandro Dell’Acqua. It’s natural that for his first outing, he should take full advantage of the creative freedom he’s been given by the house, which is testing a new direction as it courts a younger customer. Time will tell if de Vilmorin keeps some of the old décor, or paints over it completely.
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