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Hermès

Spring 2022 RTW

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Properties

Date: October 3, 2021
Location: Paris, France
Looks: 57
Brand: Hermès
URL: wwd.com

Critic Reviews

By Joelle Diderich for WWD

The destination show has taken on a new meaning, with brands rivaling to stage displays in previously untapped locations for Paris Fashion Week. The prize for most remote venue will no doubt go to Hermès, which ferried guests to a private jet terminal at Le Bourget airport north of the French capital.

Cars drove past a nearby branch of the Gagosian gallery that is currently hosting an exhibition of monumental sculptures by Richard Serra. Stepping into the Hermès venue, guests discovered another art installation: huge sliding panels, painted by Flora Moscovici, in warm sand tones that were a teaser for the palette of Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s spring collection.

“The idea of coming to the terminal was really the promise of escape,” the designer said in a preview. “You come through a passageway, a transition zone, designed to make you let go of the heaviness of the present and head toward something promising, optimistic — an opening.”

Her spring wardrobe was all about loosening up, as the world leaves behind coronavirus restrictions. Belted jackets with rolled-up sleeves were trimmed with leather and pearled studs, traditionally used to attach the hardware to the luxury house’s coveted handbags, while the gathered waistbands on wide-legged trousers were inspired by drawstring pouches.

Silk separates, in a graphic print overlaid with a blurrier impression, were paired with black leather shorts and crop tops. Athletic vests underlined the mood of austere sensuality, but the hero items were the dresses.

They ranged from full-skirted bustier styles in featherlight silk twill or buttery calfskin, to three-hole dresses with graphic details inspired by leather goods. Meanwhile, a bias-cut black shift was embellished with square flaps embroidered with glass beads.

“I looked at a lot of dresses from the 1920s, because it was interesting to be able to understand this liberation of the body from corsets, and the movement,” Vanhee-Cybulski said.

She chose a warm yellow as the anchor color for the collection, lauding the hue for its feminine, upbeat, solar and nurturing qualities. Among the standouts were a coat, crop top and micro skirt in silk gauze, layered with appliqué rectangles in paper-thin lambskin.

These were clothes for a brighter future, paired with footwear for going places: leather sandals with ultra-light soles, some worn with matching lambskin socks.

“More than building a wardrobe, it’s about recovering sensations. I think that these days, people need to be reassured, but personally, I also want to feel encouraged to continue living, and therefore I think it’s important that this is a feel-good event,” Vanhee-Cybulski explained.

The show was livestreamed and broadcast simultaneously at special events held in Busan in South Korea; Kanagawa in Japan; New York; London, and Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates. But it was hard to match the original location: at the end of the display, the walls slid open just as a plane was landing — a moment of serendipity that justified the trek.

See also:

Hermès Inaugurates Leather Goods Workshop in France

Hermès Inaugurates Permanent Space for Petit h Upcycling Brand

Hermès Staged a Triptych for Its Women’s Fall 2021 Collection

By Sarah Mower for Vogue

Who else but Hermès could arrange to land a plane as part of their finale? The reveal of the runway from the (fashion) runway happened all the way out at Le Bourget airport—the climax of a show which Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski planned as an immersive experience conveying optimism, the sun, and hope.

At first, we’d been enclosed in a cylindrical installation, with a panorama of mobile panels of sunshine yellow—hand-painted color-fields by the artist Flora Moscovici, which were gliding slowly around the perimeter as models walked. It provided a calming backdrop for viewing the collection which was, on one level, “about solar glow and how positive it is,” and, on another, about Vanhee-Cybulski’s thoughts on how women will want to dress for re-entering the world.

“I think that has changed,” she said. “For me it’s really about clothes that enable you to move freely. I think it’s not about going to anything too casual—I think it’s about making an effort, but also the ability to move within your clothes.”

In pursuit of that balance between practicality, comfort, and sensuality, she landed on shapes that combined drawstring waists and structured bra tops, athletic cutaway shoulders, and easy plissé bottoms. Believe it or not, the crop top and baggy pants—the trend worn by teenagers all over the world since summer 2020—has traveled all the way up to the heights of Hermès. In its most ultra-sophisticated of forms, of course.

Super-refined pale, buttery yellow/orange pieces in insanely crafted leather and matching knitwear were at the core of this collection—the sunny part. There was an astonishing collarless coat, miniskirt, and crop top that were made from an intricate tessellation of cut-out tan leather rectangles—which had then been embroidered onto a sheer gauze background. Other, darker leathers transmitted a definite batsqueak of sexuality: a corseted dress, minimal shifts, a black leather pantsuit; a pair of leather overalls with nothing underneath.

All of this was subsumed into a collection made with all the attention to craftsmanship that belongs to the house: the tiny metallic ‘pearl’ studs hammered into leather panels; the eyelets which refer to Hermès horse-tack heritage; the new cylindrical bags with horse bit handles.

Ironically, it was raining dreadfully in Paris as Vanhee-Cybulski unveiled her smart understanding of the lifestyle of the Hermès woman. It made for a long, unglamorous drive back into the city for most people. But thinking of next summer, it wasn’t at all hard to imagine the kind of customers who’ll be packing all this when they fly off to the sun.