For Marie-Christine Statz, it was a conversation some months ago with Miren Arzalluz, director of the Palais Galliera, about the power of clothing and women’s ambiguous relationship with it that provided the starting point for spring. With fashion now moving back into the physical world, she rowed against the current, shooting her film in the fashion museum’s grounds and corridors and on its rooftop, with Arzalluz’s musings providing the soundtrack. “An armor that’s fluid, shielding and liberating,” the voiceover said.
The look: Roomy tailored separates with subtle twists to the silhouette, provided by the innovative cutting and draping that are Gauchere’s signature, were combined with fluid silhouettes that fluttered on the body. There was an accentuated game of transparencies in some of the more masculine silhouettes. Statz used her fabrics in a range of ways, draping them on the bias and in the grain for dresses, for example. The color palette favored natural tones, black and navy as well as a pale yellow, echoing the stone of the Palais Galliera, with pops of vivid green jarring intentionally.
Quote of note: “It’s about how you can mold clothing and how it can mold you, it went even further to the roots of our DNA and why I’m doing clothes,” Statz summed up during a preview. “It’s like the different facets that you go through.”
Key pieces: Encrusted lace pieces crafted in-house were as delicate as feathers, mixed with crisp pinstriped silk or textured crêpe. Statz used pleats to creative effect, creating a jagged crisscross pattern on wide pants and outsized shirts. Wide pants, including a new cargo style, and boxy suits were made from crinkled linen. Collarless and sleeveless jackets had an adjustable tab, transforming them into asymmetric tops.
Takeaway: Statz showed off her skill and subtle yet innovative hand, infusing sensual touches in her tailored silhouettes and strength into the lightest-weight of creations.
