The gloves were off — and so was every other bit of clothing — in this lingerie-inspired collection that had more flashes of corset, garter belt and stocking than a 1950s pinup calendar.
Last season, Jonny Johansson focused on well-being, swaddling the body in fuzzy knits, dressing-gown coats and draped dresses inspired by cozy home interiors. But it’s spring now, so he’s peeling off the layers, and looking at lingerie in a new light.
Johansson said he’s been thinking about “self-identity” and people’s “obsession with performance, presenting themselves in a fashionable way — and revealing themselves,” particularly on social media.
“It’s a way of self-conceptualizing, of communicating to the world that you’re ‘in the mix,'” he said.
Hence focus on corsetry, crochet — and traditional craft. Johansson said he worked with couture corset makers, while all of the crochet was done by hand.
“It’s old craft, and I’m respecting that — but I tried to make it cool, and provocative.” He certainly succeeded on that front, sending out this curve-hugging collection with platform sandals as big as cinderblocks.
The simplest looks were the best: a dark coat with lace-up detail at the back and on the cuffs; an ethereal white dress anchored by a matching boned corset, and fine — or chunky — crochet tops, bodysuits and even handbags. Short, knitted kilt-like skirts were sweet, as were all those skinny cardigans with mile-long sleeves.
Many of these looks were tricky, though, with too many fussy suspender belt details, fringe, buttons, stirrups and buckles. A black leather mini had buttons, a belt and suspender details with buckles. It was paired with a sheer shirt that had long laces dripping from the sleeves. It was hard to know where to look first.
Streamlined and simplified, much of this will translate easily to Acne’s shop floor, although those chunky platforms might want to live the rest of their lives on the runway instead.
