With his starting point a book on the textiles of Rajasthan given to him by the late Emanuel Ungaro, Philippe Paubert delivered a collection full of faded colors and paisley prints. Dusty pinks, burnt oranges, khakis and blues dominated the color palette for day, delivered by way of comfortable tailoring allowed by the label’s extensive focus on textile research, with a few sportier pieces — logo jackets with a worn-in look, hoodies and cargo shorts — thrown into the mix.
Stretch fabrics were turned into tailored drawstring pants, while several jackets were unlined and made from knits. An orange hooded sports jacket, for example, summed up that bridging of both worlds well. A belted safari jacket in shirt-weight khaki linen was another standout in this commercial collection.
With a touch of glitz for evening, the paisley motif appeared as crystal appliqués on the lapels of a tuxedo jacket. On another, in navy, a camouflage motif was worked in metallic threads.
