The Miu Miu set, with its postage stamp-sized, midriff-baring miniskirt and super-crop top, was one of the defining runway looks of the spring 2022 season. The Aughts throwback went viral, generating its own Instagram account, and has become as recognizable as the stars who have worn it, including Zendaya in Interview magazine, Nicole Kidman on the cover of Vanity Fair and Emrata at the CFDA Fashion Awards.
Miuccia Prada wasn’t about to give up on it yet. So, as Britney Spears might say, “Hit me baby one more time.”
For fall, the designer made the look the main event, giving girlishness a neo-preppy school uniform flavor, with a few leather-clad misfits in the mix to keep things interesting.
The show had guests reclining in canvas beach chairs made by Nathalie Djurberg and Hans Berg, the Swedish artists who recently exhibited their wonderfully grotesque claymation figures and twisted animated films at Prada Rong Zhai in Shanghai.
What was on the runway also had a sense of transgression, with scandalously short skirts, shirts and the briefest of HotPants for those who do crunches, not lunches.
Low-rise pleated skirts or tweed minis with Miu Miu logo panties peeking out were paired with uber-cropped polo shirts, sheer silk Ts with giant white faux fur collars covering the chest, or had argyle sweaters tucked into the waist bands.
Side-laced leather pants and Frye-type boots had a more boyish rebelliousness. (The collection was intended to be free of gender binaries, and had all kinds of models walking the show.)
Shrunken shearlings, a burgundy leather duster, and a plaid peacoat cut to the same length as the short shorts underneath made for attractive outerwear propositions. But it was the distressed leather bomber jackets scattered with crystal embroideries that will really get fashion lovers’ hearts racing. It’s been a while since we’ve seen that kind of jeweled embellishment from Prada, and it was pleasing to have it back.
Sheer crystal mesh or crystal-embroidered lace and satin slips in sugary shades were some of the most charming dresses to come down the runway this season, with visible bras and panties underneath adding that touch of not-so innocence.
Meanwhile, the low-slung men’s belts over every look and knee socks scrunched down into ballet shoes conjured happy memories of making a school uniform one’s own.
They are going to eat it up.
