A drone flew down the Koché runway just before the first model appeared. But instead of filming, it was there with a message from the label, who hoped the show would be a moment of joy and that “like in the old days, you can clap your hands, scream, shout and kiss each other. You can kiss like crazy now,” said the computer-distorted voice.
If current events made for a subdued mood, the energy was certainly on the runway, with models taking their turn down the runway wearing party-ready outfits that continue to mine the sporty couture territory that Christelle Kocher has made her own.
Out came looks that felt like a direct continuation of spring’s glammed up wardrobe, with party-ready dresses or smartly cut suiting all given a hint of sparkle — or a body harness.
“I went to London a lot during my studies and the punk scene inspired me,” said Kocher, pointing out the electric blues and greens as nods to the clubbing scene.
That said, the overall impression skewed toward sophistication. Kocher explained she wanted to show a “softer and more comfortable couture” and “return to a certain idea of nobility” when it came to fabrics. Cue her textile palette of fleece — one with a proportion of cashmere for extra plushness, she added — chiffon, jersey and stretch laces, spliced together on liquid-looking dresses or jazzing up sportier pieces.
Top of mind were the looks that mixed textures, including floor-length dresses paired with knitwear — cropped or generously proportioned; sweaters tucked into waist-cinching belts; a thin-gauge sweater with fluttery raw-edged sleeves; a roomy duffle coat made from quilted organza-covered fleece; a parka in a thick tweed-like weave. The post-pandemic crowd may not be quite ready yet to embrace, but those certainly deserved a chef’s kiss.
