Elie Saab returned to the Paris runway on Saturday for the first time since the 2020 Beirut explosion that damaged his home and atelier, and caused death and devastation in his home city. “It’s time, now, after two years of suffering. We missed this ambience,” he said backstage, as well-wishers rushed to congratulate him — and ask for selfies.
Saab struck a celebratory mood on the runway, too, with plenty of the special occasion wear he built his business on, and an eye toward better days ahead.
“It’s a little rock ‘n’ roll, it’s about a strong woman who knows she’s beautiful,” he said, playfully.
That meant glam sequins à la Ziggy Stardust on sheer jumpsuits that led with strong shoulders, Grecian goddess gowns with gold-traced cutouts, sequin-edged bouncy ruffle lace dresses, and jewel-toned taffeta minidresses that had models’ heads in a cloud of frills.
Saab brought drama to daytime with black lace bomber jackets and sheer skirts, chic feather-trimmed tunics and trousers, and quilted velvet trenchcoats and jackets.
A sleek electric blue wrap dress with a thigh-high slit was covered up but had sex appeal, while a tailored black suit with cigarette pants, a cropped jacket and a bra top with gold hardware left a little less to the imagination.
Saab showed a crystal mesh bra top that put the glam in a feather-trimmed black hoodie, long skirt and combat boot look, and used the same effect on the bodice of a minidress. With different levels of concealing and revealing, he’s keenly aware of his brand’s intergenerational appeal.
Buyers seemed to agree. “This is such a commercial collection, I loved it,” said one, dollars in his eyes, in the rush backstage. It was the kind of excitement Zoom just can’t generate.
