After the Dior Vespa, the Dior Ducati? If Maria Grazia Chiuri’s fall collection for the French luxury house suggested a newfound passion for motorcycles, it turns out her interest in protective garb is more wide-ranging.
The designer collaborated with D-Air Lab, a start-up that produces items like the Antarctica Suit, which allows scientists to work in temperatures as low as minus-128 degrees Fahrenheit. A version of the suit, complete with electronic control unit, found its way into the show, as did variations on the start-up’s airbag vests.
While designers have long explored the potential of technology to augment the functionality of clothes, this was new territory for Chiuri, who’s made inroads into technical attire with the launch of the Dior Vibe sportswear line and DiorAlps skiwear capsule. It’s not unreasonable to think this was the prelude to another commercial exploration.
Exactly what remained unclear. “I’m really interested in exploring new territories,” she said during a preview, drawing a parallel between the padded construction of Dior’s classic Bar jacket and D-Air Lab’s utilitarian approach. “This dialogue is really experimental, but I think it’s a way also to think differently and to try to find new solutions as a designer.”
Chiuri is excited about the ways in which technology can apply to the real world. “Everyone is speaking to me about the metaverse. This doesn’t interest me because it’s not related to the human aspect. I want to show with this work how there is also a human aspect in technology,” she explained.
Aesthetically, the results were mixed. The bulky padding added nothing to her sheer black lace dresses, while the circuit bodysuit that opened the show felt like a science fair exhibit. More compelling was the way that Chiuri channeled the protective theme into the rest of the collection, with clothes that furthered her long-held agenda of challenging the male gaze.
These were clothes for self-sufficient women, from Bar jackets with removable hooded linings, to an oversize bomber jacket with tonal embroidery, and boxy jackets that spliced checked fabrics with cannage-patterned quilting. Lace biker shorts added a tomboyish edge to her signature tulle gowns, while hefty boots grounded a retro dress in a blurry floral print.
Chiuri, who started her career as an accessories designer, brought special attention to the footwear, revisiting a vintage Roger Vivier pump for Dior by adding a technical fabric yoke around the ankle. “Our feet maintain our body, so to make shoes that you really love, but at the same time are good for your foot and your body, is important,” she said.
Rooted in experience, that sounded like the kind of technology worth pursuing.