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Elie Saab

Fall 2022 Couture

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Properties

Date: July 6, 2022
Location: Paris, France
Looks: 70
Brand: Elie Saab
URL: wwd.com

Critic Reviews

By Alex Wynne for WWD

Elie Saab wrote an ode to the crepuscule, a game of shadows drawn in contrasts between geometric lines and rounded, sun-like forms. His models emerged from behind translucent panels, their silhouettes outlined by the sun shining through the skylights of the Carreau du Temple venue to be revealed in hues that went from the palest pinks and blues to the vivid red of the evening sky or midnight black.

Needless to say, there were plenty of twinkling stars in his heavily embellished sky, and a plethora of red carpet-friendly gowns — and suits, he added men’s couture pieces to the collection for the first time, as reported — for his clientele to sparkle in.

Glittering snake ornaments provided sinuous structure to simpler silhouettes, while strands of sequins and dangling crystals tinkled on the runway. The zigzag motifs of feathered mermaid skirts in dusky shades evolved into versions done in thousands of chiffon circles, fluttering like myriad petals.

Playing with regal references, he elongated and exaggerated the silhouette with tall collar necklines, often heavily bejeweled, stately capes and trains, and billowing boleros that framed the head like giant silk crowns.

Among the more interesting silhouettes, a reverse feline motif — the spots were worked in nude tulle and surrounded by silver beads on a black background — morphed into a symmetrical, brocade-like pattern on the bodice of a gown. Other highlights included an asymmetric second-skin minidress with dangling crystal strands and a jumpsuit in white and blue with a deep sweetheart neckline.

By Tiziana Cardini for Vogue

Peacocks of the world, rejoice! Elie Saab has launched a men’s couture line for which the word ‘flamboyant’ is an understatement. Presented at today’s show, it rivals in opulence his women’s, and boasts the sumptuous embellishments and embroidered intricacies that are Saab’s signature.

“I’ve been receiving requests to dress men for quite some time,” explained the Lebanese designer backstage. “They want to show off, to be visible, to get the attention.” Rest assured, they’ll receive loads of it in any one of the many headturners Saab has concocted.

The sense of drama and the goût for the spectacular agree with Saab, and there was no lack of either in both lines. The first two looks were equally majestic, both intricately carpeted with multicolored plumage intarsia on black velvet. For her, a sweeping floor-length ball gown with criss-crossed ribbons on the bodice; for him, a regal cape embroidered in a mosaic of wispy feathers, worn over a tailored black velvet tux. If you want to make a jaw-dropping entrance, Saab is definitely your go-to guy.

A theme of flame red and black kept the first part of the collection on a high-drama note. Black mesh see-through gowns were heavily embroidered with serpentine curlicues, which were repeated on the men’s generous caftans, while shapely sculptural column dresses in deep red taffeta had cloud-like sleeves poufed up to the ears. Then Saab took a turn for the dreamy, but without letting the pyrotechnics out of the picture. “I was thinking about how the light turns magical, into pink gold at dusk, after the sunset and before the evening,” he mused. A parade of powder pink and nude mesh tulle numbers followed. Variously shaped but all equally glamorous, they were bathed in shimmering sequins in every possible dimension, together with beaded fringes, embroidered tassels, drippings of crystals, and appliqués of organza petals.

Offered in pink and gold hued brocade, masculine suits with cropped tuxedos were wrapped in trailing stoles encrusted with lace. Billowy capes in hammered silk were worn over matching slim trousers, and paired with bohemian black poet shirts. Peacocks will have to prove their worth, if they want to show off their plumage in Saab’s unabashedly sumptuous attires.