Kolor worked itself into a frenzy this season, with Junichi Abe’s latest collection capturing the essence of escape.
Models paraded down a mirrored box, a claustrophobic runway carpet and glass, which grew more and more frenzied as the thumping music quickened. Surrounded by streams of office workers, the models seemed to be the only ones living in color.
But everything was just slightly off kilter — the collar of a varsity sweater askew, lapels overlapped and came undone, seams were unfinished or turned inside out. Pockets were on the outside, offset by a ruffle, but entirely decorative. It felt as if something needed to break.
Abe has always been masterful at mixing colors and layers and here he took jackets, shirts and sweaters apart and put them together in unusual mixes. What belongs where? There was a balance in the silhouette, slouchy but still defined. Blazers were long and loose, with large buttons and exterior stitching to make the staid tweed feel more modern.
Varsity jackets with patchwork detailing and cardigans that incorporated long scarves as a collar were high points; cropped rain parkas less so.
He collaborated with Kijima Takayuki for wide-brim hats, adding a slightly retro feel. Though he added more detail and accessories this season, Abe has worked with these ideas for several seasons now and while he has honed it well, it risks becoming a retread.
