Any secret society looking for ceremonial garb should look no further than the fall season of French genderless label EgonLab.
For their first physical runway show, Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix pulled out all the stops, turning the protestant Oratoire du Louvre chapel into a temple for the Egonimati, a fictional secret society of their own secretly plotting global happiness, the pair said during a preview.
Cue strict tailored looks that revisited EgonLab mainstays cut closer to the body, mixed in with streetwear pieces given a formal spin with the addition of details such as geometric piping and fringes. Tarot-style prints and motifs of all-seeing eyes added to the mystical mien of the season, while bejeweled Crocs added a bit of bling — and levity.
Dotted in the lineup were a handful of dramatic dresses — one with its bodice rigidly jutting upward or a monumental tiered number that took up the width of the runway — which the pair plan to offer as couture pieces.
If this felt antithetical to their exploration of NFTs, which were displayed as holograms around the church, the pair disagreed. “Innovation isn’t always technological, it’s also human. People are often forgotten,” Glémarec said.
One such human-oriented improvement could be found hidden in this season’s puffers, produced in collaboration with Italian brand Cashmere Flakes, which uses cashmere as an alternative to down fillings and also provides a livelihood to the nomadic Mongolian shepherds rearing the herds.
