It was a solid yet subdued Paris debut for Bianca Saunders, winner of the 2021 ANDAM fashion prize, and a closely watched talent on the rise.
Balenciaga chief executive officer Cédric Charbit, who will be mentoring her for one year as part of the prize package, was among those who filed into the Palais de Tokyo venue, the runway backdrop a simple beige curtain.
Partial to solid colors, blurred prints and monochromatic dressing, Saunders makes clothes that don’t throw off sparks on a runway. But her clever cutting and the way she twists garments can grab one’s attention.
During a Zoom preview, the British designer noted she creates all garment patterns herself, and is already known for playing with shoulder proportions by moving the seams toward the neck and pitching sleeves forward, creating a fuller, more rounded effect. What man wouldn’t wish to have broader shoulders?
How many men are searching for off-kilter trousers, with seams and pleats shifted to the right, is another question entirely.
“I want to be recognized for the shapes and cuts, and using certain colorways and textures,” she explained.
Saunder’s outerwear was striking and cool, particularly tunic-like puffer jackets that pull over the head, with shirt-style hems; loose anoraks bearing the neckline and attitude of a perfecto, or boxy jeans jackets with fuller, rounded sleeves and zippered closures.
While many young designers splash logos or noisy prints across knits and sweaters, Saunders contents herself with a wonky neckline or a trompe l’oeil tuck that makes a pullover garment almost pass for one that snaps closed at the front. “As a designer, I’m quite a perfectionist,” she said.
It was a carefully calibrated show, with Saunders keen to offer a range of categories and silhouettes, including tailoring, denim and casualwear. “I really want to make sure that people will see what the brand is about, and see that the most important part is innovation with design,” she said.
