If you needed a clue as to designer Christian Siriano’s inspiration for the season, look no further than his choice of location: the stately former residence of one Elizabeth Taylor. In the heart of Midtown, the historic turn-of-century mansion is dripping in old-world elegance with its salons and winding marble staircases.
“It’s Audrey Hepburn, Bianca Jagger, Katharine Hepburn, Judy Garland, Ava Gardner, a modern Marilyn Monroe,” he noted backstage before the show. Each signal his theme: a return to glamour. “If Elizabeth has a dinner party, who would be over,” he quipped.
Siriano knew he had to have the space, aiming to show his elegant work in an intimate setting, so “people can really see the clothes.”
He began with modern takes on suiting, wide legged with structured shoulders like clouds and cummerbund waists. He pared them with supersized boater hats in monochromatic hues. Models came down the stairs dripping in old world taste, but remixed for now.
He organized his robust number of looks in saturated color stories and played on his trademark textures and embellishments “Every look…is a look,” he explained, preferring to keep the collection in the realm of evening, event dressing. “We’re not necessarily saying it’s spring,” he cautioned. “Because for us, our customer is wearing it everywhere all over the world, anytime.”
The color story began with red, including a gown made of two puff tiered details at the waist over a long sheer maxidress and sheer top over crop top, then moved on to cobalt blue section, with a boatneck long-sleeve look with a massive bow detail in the front over a skirt that opened up into the perfect cigarette pant. They underscored his take on a thoroughly modern glamour. Cocktails under the stars, a gala at any number of cultural institutions? Siriano has you covered.
Sandwiched between the feminine frocks was a singular denim look, part of his Gloria Vanderbilt collection. It had a crystal tux panel down the leg, and he paired it with a white satin shirtdress gathered to expose the waist, with an oversize peasant sleeve. Casual? Probably not — and that suits Siriano just fine.
Denim wasn’t his only collaboration. He capped off the collection with jewelry created with Marla Aaron. Known for her signature hardware creations, the modern pieces with lock details completed the refined assortment of looks.
Also in the mix, a suiting look on a male model. Siriano said his brand sees shoppers of all types and while it’s not a signal of a menswear launch, it shows that his work is for all, a theme that has been core to his brand from the beginning. “If they have a little check, we don’t say no,” Siriano, a one-man quote machine and TV personality, joked.
While his collection brought to life new takes on well-dressed muses of the past, there was an even more powerful muse in the present — Janet Jackson was in the building. She ascended the stairs in an elegant black suit and sheer top, finishing her look with a stack of geometric black bangles on both arms and a ladylike Siriano purse.
“When I asked her, she said ’I’ll be there,’” Siriano exclaimed. “Truly, that is all you need.” The designer has dressed the entertainment legend a few times. “Hope she likes it,” he said, sheepishly.
Not to worry — he reported she has already inquired about several looks.
As NYFW kicks into gear there is already a lot of talk about New York being back with a vengeance and Siriano has a busy week. He and his good friend supermodel Coca Rocha are hosting the Supima Design Competition fashion show later in the week.
And while there will certainly be countless sightings of high wattage stars this week, none shine as brightly as the icon that is Miss Janet Jackson.
