Christian Cowan’s party-girl design aesthetic got a mature update for fall, with the designer referencing “female legends of a bygone era,” like Judy Garland, Marilyn Monroe and Marlene Dietrich.
“The inspiration this season was really about these legends and their connection with the queer community from early on,” he said before his runway show Tuesday night. “Something that I find so beautiful and my reasoning for thinking that they loved each other so much was they channeled their sorrow into their creativity. I think that’s the talent the queer community has and these amazing women. I always do glamorous and fabulous, but there’s also a dark side to that glamour, which so often these amazing women, their lives ended quite tragic.”
There was an obvious somber tone in Cowan’s fall collection; however, it was blended with the designer’s signature opulence. Looks included a sculptural black minidress with feathers swishing out of the bodice, a silver sequin oversize blazer (which was also worn by Cowan’s boyfriend Sam Smith, who sat front row) and a blazer and trouser set embellished with chandelier-like beading.
The heavier pieces were balanced with minimal silk and cotton poplin styles that opened the show. The minimal pieces were unexpected given Cowan’s usual design aesthetic, but added a maturity that hinted at the evolution of the brand.
“We’re at a pivotal point in our brand where I think at one point I was doing what was me when I was 22,” Cowan explained. “Now it feels like we’ve jumped forward and this is the modern-day Christian Cowan brand and what we stand for.”
In line with this design shift, Cowan explained the brand archived its older images on its social media platforms and relaunched its website with new imagery to reflect a more mature, somber vibe. He also explained this shift will be seen in his retail strategy. After hosting his first pop-up shop in New York last year, the designer stated he has plans to open more across the U.S. in the near future, naming Las Vegas as one of the upcoming locations.
It wouldn’t be a Christian Cowan collection without some standout party looks. The designer stayed true to his glamorous aesthetic, but gave it a revamp with a range of looks like a silk slipdress with an embroidered hem, a pink feathered strapless dress and a floor-length silver sequined dress paired with a black duster that evoked a cool, downtown girl vibe.
The collection came full circle with the finale look, which consisted of a model struggling to walk under the weight of a massive feathered coat and headdress.
“I wanted to personify the idea of giving everything you’ve got to glamour and it killing you,” Cowan said. “I have this wonderful model from the same area in Spain that I’m from — Galicia — and she is struggling under the weight of this giant cape. It weighs so much and she’s got a headpiece and this gown and the heels. The idea is that she’s braving through it, but it’s tough.”
On his desired takeaway from the collection, Cowan explained he hopes people understand the impact that his muses made on the queer community.
“I feel like not enough people — at least in my contemporary age group — appreciate the beauty of these amazing women and also how pivotal they were at a point where our community had zero rights,” he said. “They were really the first people to show love to us in a public setting, so I would really like people to know that more. I want people to go home and listen to the Judy Garland album at Carnegie Hall. It will change their lives.”
