There was a feeling of uncertainty in the air in the minutes leading up to Alexander Wang’s runway show. The show marked his return to New York Fashion Week after pivoting to focus on China and selling minority stakes to two Chinese investors, all while weathering an ongoing controversy Stateside over allegations in 2021 of sexual assault. He’s since apologized publicly and, after showing in L.A. last year, was back in New York. A who’s-who of legacy fashion publications’ editors in chief were there, indicating despite any past alleged transgressions, the fashion crowd remains interested in what he has to say creatively.
On the runway, he titled his latest work “Cupid’s Door,” revealing it in three acts: a taste of fall, a bit of “see now buy now” spring, pre-fall and a menswear relaunch. “I really thought about love and romance,” Wang said backstage after the show. “I really haven’t dedicated a collection to that before.” He called out the proximity to Valentine’s Day, being back in New York and Wong Kar Wai films as themes too.
The first act featured a mix of faux fur looks and denim, the kind of downtown magpie type of dressing Wang did 15 years ago — think model off duty just popping into her local bodega. Julia Fox and Lana Rhoades both walked the runway, underscoring the social media catnip hype he is courting today.
The menswear, which will hit stores in May, featured fuller pants, logo hoodies, more animal prints, a bit of iridescence, as well as tailoring. “It’s more than just sweatshirts and T-shirts,” he said.
He finished with a series of silk fringe eveningwear ideas, each hanging from sheer net foundations and heart-shaped bodices. Coy, sexy and a bit irreverent, a running theme across all of his latest collections.
