The look: The brand’s design team mined the archives for inspiration for the spring women’s and men’s collection, turning to the designer’s former shows and store for the color palette, key silhouettes and details. The result was an assortment of familiar pieces and materials — raw edges, eyelets, zipped gussets, mesh and leather — but updated to address today’s modern world.
Quote of note: “Right now, we all need things we can rely on — in our studio, we like to refer to the Helmut Lang codex. And yet the desire for change — a new view, new air to breathe — is very real. The latter might explain why we currently find ourselves in a nautical mood,” the team said.
Key pieces: Nautical references were prevalent throughout the collection in everything from wide-legged sailor pants and shirts with metal eyelets to vests made from fishing nets. Denim was reworked in a crinkled cotton/nylon blend in classic five-pocket jean and trucker jacket silhouettes, and suits were revamped to be comfortable yet modern in a silhouette that referenced flight suits. Transparent mesh was incorporated into dresses, pants and skirts and provided a more-feminine touch to some of the pieces. And naturally, leather was a part of the collection, showing up in everything from a stretchy biker short and leather bra to a yoke. But the most eye-catching piece, offered for both men and women, was a classic trench, updated with a bold blue bonded rubber interior, placket and collar.
The takeaway: The team was successful in its mission to look back at the past while offering its interpretation of the future.
