Joseph Altuzarra is back on the New York runway for good, he said Sunday after showing a gorgeous collection that married escapism with everyday.
The raw, urban setting was the ideal foil for his richly textured clothes.
“We wanted to take an abandoned corporate office and reclaim it as a creative space,” he said of staging the show at 160 Varick, on a floor that was completely unfinished except for the yarn-bombed pillars at the center of the runway.
Altuzarra said his main objective with the collection was to create emotion, which happened as soon as the models came out, announcing themselves with the jingle-jangle of their coin sandals. Hello beauty, hello fashion!
Shibori-dyed dresses (an Altuzarra classic), cozy knotted and sarong-style knits, and airy maxidresses with crochet bras, bodices and bibs evoked wanderlust while maintaining a sense of intimacy in their handcraft and tactility. Removable crochet belts, bra tops and collars were clever extras added to sweeping beetle print maxidresses and drip-dyed skirts, but could also be purchased separately for a small taste of the look.
Although Altuzarra did show a smattering of suiting in his Spice Road palette, the linen tunics and easy pants accessorized with coin belts looked great, and were perfect for the new work-home hybrid reality (not to mention the heat).
Micro pleated pieces had sophisticated polish and stretch-to-fit ease; the metallic gold laced-front tunic and skirt set in particular was a knockout.
Altuzarra explained backstage that he’d experimented with flower bundle dyeing and tapped artisan communities around the world for the shibori and crochet work in the collection, acknowledging how sustainability and social impact are shaping the new luxury.
It all added up to a welcome return to the rich bohemian look of the brand’s early days.
“This season is so emotional,” the designer said backstage, trying to keep it together. “It’s been a hard year and we poured love into this.”
It showed.
