For pre-fall, the MM6 Maison Margiela team brought forth a modern redux of utility-driven designs through a “subversive study of military wear.” The team recontextualized textures, silhouettes, garment details and motifs signature to the genre in a very Margiela way, offering a pragmatic, cool wardrobe with an urban edge.
The look: Garments that sent a very of-the-now message while cleverly, and authentically, referencing the past.
Quote of note: Collection notes included, “Fabrics associated with military garments are fashioned into pieces that read of anything but.”
“A similar spirit of subversion informs a variety of aesthetic details that enhance the garment’s function.”
“For all its wit and irreverent decontextualization, this is a wardrobe to be worn here and now.”
Key pieces: A cropped boxy-framed heather gray wool watchcoat (as well as ample outerwear options ranging from sleek leather jackets to a bulbous nylon cocoon coat); intriguing bleached denim and mesh layers with trompe-l’oeil dog tags and images of signature MM6 garments in bright blue, red and Army green; a white flight suit; a chocolate suede mini skirt with gilt-buttoned patch pockets a la 19th-century uniforms, worn with matching teddy-lined jacket; knits; dresses ranging from sharp, utility styles to pixelated slips. In accessories, the team pushed forward military ideas through an army-issue wool sock boot and sharp bags reminiscent of mapholder bags, compact toolboxes and water flask holders.
Takeaway: Overall, the “Avant-Première” collection displayed a lineup of intriguing clothes and accessories with ample wearability.
