“We’re in stabilizing and measuring mode — figuring out that tension and balance between structure and fluidity while staying fluid with the moment,” designer Phillip Lim said at his Great Jones Street storefront’s fall collection preview.
“Going into uniforms — playing hard on that one because, at the end of the day, it’s looking for a new uniform to fit the moment. What does that mean? Everyone has their own version of it, but the best way is to come back to house codes.”
Like many designers this season, Lim isn’t interested in the at-home, cozy uniform of late but he did offer transitional ease through polished garments with modularity (a key word for the season). For instance, a uniform-inspired cropped cadet jacket, styled with pleated leather alternative skirt or myriad wool trouser shapes (carrot and dickie included). Twisted ribbed knit tops and pleated tanks could be worn front to back, offering covered-up appeal for the return to the office place and sexiness for night. An embellished twist-front turtleneck and poplin shirt, worn with pleated wool culottes, sheer rib embellished gloves and “Dorthy Gale” glitter platforms exemplified the ideas with youthful charm.
Recycled ripstop nylon padded puffer jackets and tailored outerwear (a bicolor trench) played to the designer’s utilitarian core, combining “the stability and authority of structure” with fluid femininity (i.e. matching skirt sets and dresses with marbled lichen prints, subtle cutouts or irregular pleating).
Lim found his balance for fall — offering realistic wardrobing in fresh, finely crafted, aspirational ways.
