As Jennifer Lawrence was descending the steps of Palais des Festivals in Cannes last week in a red gown and black flip-flops unexpectedly peeking underneath it, Lorenzo Serafini and his team were on set shooting Philosophy’s resort collection, which had some common points with that buzzy red carpet moment.
The most blatant was the shared choice of footwear, with the designer opting for a more elevated leather version to complement his sleek looks. The accessory set the tone for the same ‘90s vibes and overall sense of ease channeled by Lawrence and here poured by Serafini into a focused and convincing lineup. The designer further built on the new direction he embarked at the brand last year and that walks the line between sensuality and romance as well as the feminine and the masculine.
Yet here Serafini’s vision was particularly sharp, as he focused his creativity on a few themes of immediate readability. “The goal is to simplify to amplify the message,” he confirmed during a walk-through in Milan.
For one, tailoring was strong in its pure lines, alternating fitted blazer jackets with the relaxed silhouettes of pants worn with vests. Vests specifically were go-to items for Serafini, who also doubled them as minidresses or layered them over ruffled cotton ones for a more feminine touch.
A similar look was replicated in denim, with baggy pants covered in thermo-adhesive sequins with a waxed effect. Adding to the different textures in the lineup, lightweight bouclé separates introduced micro proportions via bralettes and miniskirts and oversize fits with blousons worn over delicate floral undergarments or faux leather pieces.
Elsewhere, duchesse fabric added shine in fitted minidresses, charming frocks with full skirts and criss-cross detailing on the back as well as blazer jackets in black or candy pink. It was a lead-up to the more eveningwear offering that culminated in a series of hard-to-miss mesh looks covered in rhinestones.
Despite their high glam quotient, these were cut in essential, stretchy silhouettes that restated Serafini’s quest for simplicity and wearability. If the road to sensuality is paved with self-confidence, Serafini knows that journey always starts with feeling at ease.
