Although the array of arched windows offering a stunning view of Milan’s Castello Sforzesco made for a compelling distraction, Luke and Lucie Meier’s resort collection stood out in the pristine Jil Sander showroom with the richness of its textures and charming color accents.
“It’s important that pre-collection still stays very exciting — so that people see it and see anything we do as interesting and qualitative — because there’s so much out there, so it has to reverberate in a way,” said Luke Meier.
For their latest effort, the designers worked on proportions, juxtaposing boxy shapes to narrow silhouettes hugging to the body, and with a gentle approach to the brand’s signature precise lines, further emphasizing the sense of effortlessness they are committed to imbue in their work at the label.
Textures took the spotlight and highlighted both Meiers’ inventiveness in elevating uncomplicated silhouettes and the craftsmanship behind the brand. Fluid jersey, ribbed wool, cotton bouclé, handmade crochet, shearling, ruffles and pleats all converged in the feminine collection, which was also enriched by lingerie-like details. A chenille embroidery on a delicate slipdress or on organza pencil skirts resulted in 3D effects and graphic patterns that were beautiful. So was an ajour turtleneck sweater, which best expressed the subtle yet special way the Meiers operate and approach everyday staples.
More eccentric touches were introduced via a series of Pop prints, which recalled the ‘90s nods in the brand’s fall 2024 collection presented earlier this year, or arty jewelry that punctuated the looks.
“We liked this idea that jewelry can travel across, from the body to the garments,” Meier said about necklaces, earrings and brooches that reminded of Alexander Calder’s art. Some pieces fully integrated with the clothes, too, as in the case of a golden necklace. Its bold silhouette created a nice contrast with the light fabrication of a tangerine jersey dress, and could be also detached to be worn separately.
