In the skilled hands of Antonio Marras, even a recurrent inspiration in fashion can get an unpredictable turn and poetic touch. The nautical theme, with all its crystallized symbolism of sailor stripes and anchor motifs, got an artisanal treatment in the Sardinian designer’s resort collection.
As always in Marras’ work, a rich storytelling detailed in the press notes flanked the lineup, this time linking it to the beauty of the Italian island of Caprera. But even without a subtext, one could appreciate the multiple ways Marras interpreted the different shades of the sea via opulent fabrications and treatments, as well as intertwined them with the pillars of his fashion.
“Such granted themes are always the hardest to deal with. I wanted to find shades, textures and solutions that could evoke and narrate the sea, but in a different way,” the designer said. “I don’t like anything that’s already ready and done, I prefer to re-elaborate everything.”
So he did with his knack for patchworks, textural juxtaposition, crafty embellishments and study in volumes. He played with transparencies in polka-dot tulle dresses and paired the fabric with shot linen in another frock. He further built on pattern combinations and 3D effects in an array of feminine options via printed inserts, pleats, embroideries, sequins and short feathers, that added a breezy movement also to some tailored pieces.
Evoking the light reflected and gleaming on waves, Marras relied on iridescent fabrics and further upped the ornamental ante with rich damasks that particularly stood out when used on charming reversible kimonos, bomber jackets and full skirts.
A simpler interpretation of the theme came via dégradé effects on fluid dresses and literal nautical prints splashed on pajama sets, while many denim pieces building on the palette of blue and navy shades were reworked à la Marras with embroidered floral patches and allover sequined sections. The designer’s beloved botanical patterns ultimately prevailed in the second part of the lineup, where lovely intarsia knit twinsets, devoré and lamé dresses in pastel hues and Marras’ signature artisanal parkas sealed the romantic vibe of the collection.
