MSGM

Spring 2023 RTW

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Properties

Date: September 24, 2022
Location: Milan, Italy
Looks: 9
Brand: MSGM
URL: wwd.com

Critic Reviews

By Martino Carrera for WWD

With Italian elections taking place Sunday, this Milan Fashion Week showed that designers are eager to speak their minds. Donatella Versace and Pierpaolo Piccioli did it via Instagram posts, and up-and-comer Marco Rambaldi and activist-creative Stella Jean, too, showing on the runway what progressive Italy looks like.

Massimo Giorgetti addressed the subject backstage at his Saturday show. How could he not? The vocal, stance-taking Instagram and TikTok generation are his clients, rushing to get one of his slogan-bearing T-shirts whenever one drops.

Pinned on the season’s mood board were images from François Truffaut’s “The Bride Wore Black” and Uma Thurman in Quentin Tarantino’s “Kill Bill,” as well as Milla Jovovich wearing a bridal veil and flower crown.

Was he launching a noir-tinged bridal range? Not really. His original intention, a witty and humorous take on bridal garb, turned out as a serendipitously apt parade the day before the polls, the likely win by the nationalist-leaning coalition seen as a retrograde step for the country.

“I like that this theme of marriage, freedom, love, togetherness coincided with today,” Giorgetti said. “I don’t want to campaign, but tomorrow let’s all try to keep love, unity, climate [action] and the earth intact,” he said, tackling subjects of political debate.

Still, MSGM is about fun and lighthearted fashion, which is also much needed in tough times.

No black-veiled spouses here, but Lolitas sporting see-through, neon-tinged, brief-revealing tulle skirts riffing on wedding gowns’ petticoats. Delicate lace, another wedding-inspired collection fetish, was worked into skin-baring tops, skintight leggings and catsuits with frills and ruches and appeared as a print on slipdresses.

He was more in his element with short stretch frocks sinuously wrapped and knotted around the body, girlish smock ruffled dresses or boxy white blazers sprouting crystals and wedding bands.

They were fun, but lacked Giorgetti’s usual knack for sensing what’s trending on the streets and turning it into retail-ready fashion — joyous and cheerful.

By Tiziana Cardini for Vogue

Massimo Giorgetti believes in marriage. He tied the knot six years ago with his partner, Mattia, and “I feel lucky because at that time, gay couples in Italy had just acquired the right to get a civil marriage, and it was such a happy moment for us,” he said backstage at today’s show, which he titled Forever, Always, Per Sempre.

That freedom is now being threatened, as the world seems to be going backward. Tomorrow, Italy will head to the polls to elect a new government, and the prospect of a far-right prime minister looms large—clearly something not auspicious for the safeguarding of civil and human rights, including same-sex marriage and a life devoid of stigma and marginalization for LGTBQ+ communities.

While not addressing the theme from an overtly political perspective, Giorgetti’s message used irony and lightness to bring the issue to the table. The show was inspired by films like Quentin Tarantino’s Kill Bill and François Truffaut’s The Bride Wore Black, both apparently romantic comedies that turned into disquieting action movies. Giorgetti is a natural-born optimist, and any dark or cynical tone was banned from his rendition; the collection was colorful, young, cheerful.

The mood was definitely more Lolita than Truffaut. MSGM brides wore tiny briefs under see-through tulle slip dresses, ruffled baby dolls layered over silk camisoles, and inconspicuous bikinis just veiled by a sheer T-shirt. Their trousseau also included skintight leotards in neon green lace with ruffles spiraling up the legs; T-shirts printed with a saucy corseted bustier; and mini-kilts and halter dresses in pleated white tulle.

But why still believe in marriage when happy endings are more elusive than ever? Giorgetti thinks that in today’s world, so fractured and uncertain, the need to love and be loved is stronger than ever. “There’s a desire to fall in love, to connect, to express emotions and feelings,” he said. “But I’m aware that an eternal promise of love cannot easily be kept. Yet it’s a promise that, however illusory, can save us from loneliness and isolation. Togetherness brings about strength—a promise of love is a right worth fighting for.”