“Missoni is a language that has been spoken for 70 years,” said Filippo Grazioli at a pre-fall appointment. “My duty is to introduce new words, to widen its vocabulary.”
Simplify, edit, streamline—this is Grazioli’s new terminology, his glossary to update the label’s lexicon. After drastically reducing the chromatic spectrum to just a few colors (white, black, magenta, cyan and yellow), and narrowing silhouettes down to lean, vertical lines, now he’s opening up the palette to more Missonian variations, while adding fluid options to shapes and proportions.
Some items he just presented in the men’s fall collection were also proposed for pre-fall, like the rainbow-colored mohair cardigans and the denim pieces made in an updated textured version of the fiammato pattern. He loosened up the volume of knits a little, as in slightly roomier jumpers, jackets and coats worn over his signature short, tight-fitting and slender minidresses. The play on contrasting patterns and textures was more accented: zig-zag, checks and fiammato, often woven with lurex yarn to give surfaces some shine, were blown up in micro/macro renditions. The raschel and caperdoni fabrics (which are made exclusively in-house with special textile machines) were fashioned into masculine high-waisted pants, soft-tailored overcoats worn with matching miniskirts or bodycon minidresses.
Grazioli also offered more chromatic variety, adding tones of lilac, rust, pastels, and bright red to the basic palette of optic white and black. Relaxing into his role, he’s honing his approach to the label: “I want Missoni to be real, timeless and ageless,” he said. “I want to see people in the street wearing it—I want it to be actually wearable, not just a fashion fantasy.”
