Icons and alliterations were top of mind for Ian Griffiths as he was conjuring Max Mara’s pre-fall collection.
The designer revved up the house’s signature styles by referencing the ultimate icon, Marilyn Monroe, whose happy, carefree images were pinned on his mood board. Not that the actress was a new inspiration in fashion or for Griffiths — she’s already infused the brand’s narrative twice in the past — but her influence is constantly revamped, and most recently by Ana de Armas’ interpretation in the “Blonde” movie.
Yet, rather than the Netflix film, which had a somber take on the life of the actress, Griffiths referenced Elizabeth Winder’s “Marilyn in Manhattan: Her Year of Joy” book in his creative journey, as he wanted to evoke Monroe’s bohemian life in the city. It is when she developed her taste in arts and mingled with intellectuals, including her husband Arthur Miller.
“What if she stayed in New York? What would she have worn at present day?” wondered Griffiths. Great outerwear of understated luxury, practical denim pieces, dresses with an athletic vibe and some prints here and there, imagined the designer.
Daytime looks nodded to workwear via overalls and denim separates, including jeans with a deep turn-up available in sorbet colors, and more masculine pieces, such as pinstriped suits or an oversize baseball jacket embroidered with the brand’s initials — the same as those of the actress.
Gabardine slipdresses peeked from under lightweight cashmere coats and trenches, while a sequined option was covered with delicate georgette fabric for a more discreet take on eveningwear. Other frocks, full skirts and even the brand’s 101801 coat were crafted in technical mesh for a sporty touch, as Griffiths underscored that “Marilyn was the only star that ran every day, and I think she would have continued.”
Inspired by Monroe’s makeup box, Pop Art prints of beauty products were splashed on shirts and midi dresses, while photographs by artist William Wegman of his Weimaraner dogs wearing Max Mara’s Teddy Bear coat were featured on T-shirts and hoodies.
Better than the images, the real coat — which is to mark its 10th anniversary in 2023 — was given a twist with vibrant hues, including a beautiful raspberry version. Yet it was a new, cropped version named Teddy Teddino — another alliteration, he pointed at — and inspired by the shape of a denim jacket that was the highlight of the collection. Its fresh appeal reflected the brand’s ability to create icons that can be successfully adapted to the times.
