Images of the world taken from space were merged in a print introduced in Diesel’s pre-fall 2023 collection, offering a visual reminder of the global Diesel-ization mission Glenn Martens started upon his arrival at the brand two years ago.
Offering a new take on camouflage, the pattern added to the universal appeal of denim and evoked the company’s goal of blending geographies and welcoming everyone to the brand, one embedded in Diesel DNA’s that has been successfully dusted off and revamped by Martens.
Asked about the formula that enabled him to put Diesel back on the fashion map so quickly — but in a category all its own since Martens constantly says the brand is an alternative to luxury players — the designer pointed to its straightforward attitude, “not taking yourself too seriously, having fun, being honest. No bulls–t. I think people need that.”
It’s a recipe even clearer in pre-collections, where Martens takes a more straightforward approach compared to his over-the-top fashion shows as he further widens the brand’s scope to appeal to a larger audience while still hammering on Diesel’s key codes of all-things-denim, pop inflections and utilitarian vibes.
“Pre-collection is fully democratic….we’re talking to people [who] are not specifically into fashion. They’re more into attitudes and lifestyle,” said the creative director. Hence, for pre-fall 2023, garments and accessories multiplied — cue a new collaboration with Luxottica for sunglasses or the new Charm-D quilted bag crafted with denim leftovers.
Keeping with Diesel’s irreverent attitude, Martens included denim pants cut with biker detailing, distressed, slashed on the ankles or with jersey inserts on the sides in flared or baggy styles. For an extra dose of Y2K nostalgia (if more were still needed), the brand’s D logo appeared in a blown-up scale on the back of miniskirts and jeans.
Yet the sexy, unapologetic spirit of the Diesel woman was best conveyed through denim dresses with front zippers and long skirts, woven denim track tops as well as metallic hooded frocks, wrap skirts and tops with a futuristic vibe embellished with the omnipresent D buckle. Highlights also included a yellow knitted look stretching over the body and printed airy options, such as slipdresses and caftans. Flanking the world map pattern, an acid floral motif splashed on frocks and cropped padded jackets energized the raw appeal of the lineup with its vibrant orange, pink and red hues.
The pop, rave and biking worlds were juxtaposed to both utilitarian cargo pants and bombers in maxi volumes and dark soft tailoring — a category Martens tiptoed into earlier this year and further indulged in for pre-fall as, surprising even to him, it resonated well with customers.
