A metallic, oversize shirt doubling as a minidress stood out in the new collection Antonio D’Anna designed for Krizia. Crafted with a fabric including steel threads and concealing a silk lining, the shiny look had a wavy surface and twisted details that conveyed a futuristic vibe to its unfussy silhouette. It also embodied the experimentation D’Anna pushed this season.
More than on design, D’Anna focused on fabric research and the tactile quality of garments to strengthen all the contrasts he’s committed to explore at the brand, like the masculine-feminine duality and the juxtaposition between crafty, artisanal techniques and industrial inspiration. As result, he conjured an array of special pieces that further built on his convincing journey of rejuvenating Mariuccia Mandelli’s brainchild.
The metallic sculptural effects recurred in charming asymmetric dresses or cropped tops. D’Anna also laser-cut leather to create tiny fringes on the surface of graphic coats and long skirts to almost mimic a furry appearance. He also borrowed materials from the automotive industry, such as a smooth black fabric with a rubbery touch and liquid look he deployed for a puffer jacket padded with recycled silk.
Handcrafted knit furs in washed mohair amplified the volumes of the sleek lineup, introducing a natural and matte counterpoint to the shiny surfaces. In a different take, mohair was left in its airy form for see-through body-con separates that joined viscose dresses and shirts with daring transparencies in upping the sensual quotient of the collection.
