Massimo Giorgetti took the fashion crowd to school on Saturday.
Doubling as academic dean of the imaginary MSGM Dreamers University, he summoned guests at the Brutalist building of Politecnico’s architecture faculty in Milan with a letter stating some ground rules that could give Ivy League schools a run for their money. Anticipated exits can be justified for exceptional reasons, mainly love-oriented; parties are strongly recommended, and support of campus sports teams is encouraged with ironic gadgets. Who wouldn’t enroll?
Once the show kicked off, Giorgetti’s fashion program started, too. This included a masterclass in preppy aesthetics; relaxed tailoring 101; sporty references management, and tutoring on streetstyle.
The retro appeal of varsity jackets, V-neck vests and striped cardigans was largely explored and given a twist in pairings with baggy cargo pants and fleece joggers. Tailoring was loose and cool, as seen in pin-striped or micro-check suits with an unfussy vibe or narrow blazer jackets worn with sporty shorts. A bubblegum pink coat worn over a mismatched suit made for a statement piece, but a series of knits, tweed separates and even sneakers shone just as much with their Lurex threads and glittery glory.
Heraldic symbols and coats of arms were scattered profusely, while sport inflections were seen through monochrome tracksuits, rugby sweaters and quarterback jerseys covered in fictional signatures of the university team’s stars. Toward the end of the show, the illustration of an MSGM mascot popped up on a puffer jacket and a mohair sweater.
Berets, untied regimental ties hanging from the neck and baseball caps hooked on belt loops added to the rebellious spirit of Giorgetti’s students.
The designer envisioned a school that celebrates creativity, freedom of expression and that “recognizes happiness as a social, cultural and artistic responsibility.”
The intriguing mix of insubordination and romance (expressed by the soundtrack of Italian ‘80s punk rock band CCCP) added to the charm of the collection, which was an ode to “a generation that faces the world with the desire to change things,” he said.
Once again, Giorgetti has proven to be a strong believer in youth — and that’s the best thing a dean could possibly be.
