A strong collection marked Marco De Vincenzo’s menswear debut at Etro and made a compelling case for creative progression.
In a time when newly appointed designers are under pressure to deliver a defined, impactful image from the start, it’s refreshing to see one developing his vision gradually; it makes observers feel involved in the discovery process, too.
To this end, guests arriving at Etro’s industrial show venue got to see and touch why De Vincenzo is committed to putting the company’s textile heritage at the core of his tenure, as racks and rolls of archival fabric samples lining the space offered a glimpse into Etro’s know-how.
If the set-up wasn’t explanatory enough, the designer spotlighted bold patterns and rich fabrications in the collection — only this time he wove in a part of his personal history, too.
Take the first look: a long wool coat with an allover geometric motif that replicated the graphic of a velvet blanket the designer owned as a child. As a sort of talisman, it led a convincing sequence of crafty knitwear, cozy outerwear and groovy tailoring, all imbued with a youthful attitude. A key element, tartan, nodded to the early days of the company, while beautiful fuzzy sweaters in swirling motifs winked to De Vincenzo’s signature optical effects. A reintroduction to paisley was also filtered through the designer’s lens in jumpsuits and shirtdresses.
Keeping shapes uncomplicated, tailoring was cut in elongated ‘70s silhouettes, but grungy accents surfaced in loose knit sweaters and long kilts. Another standout, tuxedo pants delicately embroidered with flowers at the waist were paired with check shirts for outfits that evoked Etro’s DNA without the need for literal references.
“When it comes to menswear, all it takes are a few ingredients to make a garment shine.…And it really takes little to turn something into ‘Etro’: You put together an embroidery and the right print and the brand is there, it speaks for itself. It’s a little bit like magic,” said De Vincenzo in a preview.
Yet, even more than visually, the lineup charmed for its tactile quality and juxtaposition of textures, ranging from shiny leather jackets to wavy velvet suits; from furry hoodies and shorts to three-dimensional crochet fruits dangling from sweaters. They contributed to the comfy and crafty feel of the collection, which marked another step forward in fusing Etro’s codes with De Vincenzo’s point of view.
