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Emporio Armani

Fall 2023 RTW Menswear

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Properties

Date: January 14, 2023
Location: Milan, Italy
Looks: 101
Brand: Emporio Armani
URL: wwd.com

Critic Reviews

By Miles Socha for WWD

Giorgio Armani revealed a new round incarnation of the runway theater at his Via Bergognone headquarters — and demonstrated that his attention to detail never wavers.

A few minutes before the advertised start time, the room still not yet full, he peered out from behind the bleachers to suss out the situation.

Perhaps he was extra eager because this was a solid and inventive Emporio Armani collection, rooted in military-influenced styles and enlivened with plush and shimmering textures.

Models marched out in fur-trimmed great coats, gray flannel flight suits and off-duty Prince of Wales tailoring, their heads topped with leather aviator helmets and their feet shod in the chunky-heeled, midheight boots that are sweeping the Milan shows. Some boots had little utility bags strapped to one ankle.

The show progressed by color story: first cozy beige and greige, then black and brown leather, some spice-toned velvets, some vibrant purples and pinks, culminating with navy and black, including handsome brass-button ceremonial-style jackets.

There was plenty to like, with some slim tailoring worked in among the cozy, more generous silhouettes. His wide flannel pants, cropped like culottes, may not be for everyone. Ditto the loose pajama styles that closed the show, glimmering with sequins or flecked with crystals.

But kudos to the designer for finding new things to say with men’s pants. Before taking his bow, he stooped to pick up one of the utility bags that had loosened from an ankle and held it up triumphantly.

By Luke Leitch for Vogue

Mr. Armani changed things up in the Via Bergognone space today, reconfiguring his runway to an in the round format. On the floor was a map of Milan. We were seated by its northeast, over near Lambrate. Meanwhile, celebrity guests including Roberto Baggio—still sporting “The Divine Ponytail”—and White Lotus tech bro Ethan’s Will Sharpe—were over near Cagnola.

From the first look out the conceit was clear: the goggle-like sunglasses perched on old-fashioned aviator caps signaled we were taking off for an overview of Milanese masculine style. Our captain today needed no introduction. The caps stayed in place while the collection’s theme was established with a series of looks featuring flowing faux-fur lined outerwear, jumpsuits and suiting in a combination of Prince of Wales and houndstooth. In-flight supplies were stashed in handsome leather duffel bags. The models wore chunky ankle boots to which were attached coin wallets. Above these were straight-leg pants, no Oxford bags but wide, hemmed just above that footwear to create the impression of culottes.

Altitude achieved, the models continued to circle above Milan in a more grounded selection of ensembles. The silhouette remained consistent but cashmere bombers and a shaved herringbone tracksuit brought the style dialect forward in time. Some harnessed all-leather looks added a heady touch of turbulence. Following an interesting EA7 interlude, featuring especially excellent sneakers and down jackets and pants in a shiny, distressed burgundy finish, Armani banked towards color. This is probably getting slightly carried away, but its progression was akin to what you’ll see out the window if you’re heading into Linate from London in late afternoon: an autumnal progression of apricot-ish russets burst briefly into pinks and purples before we fell into inky blackness—a long section of eveningwear—sometimes dappled by the starlight flash of sequin and crystal.

As with every real-life flight to Linate, where Emporio has marked its territory with a hugely-signed hangar for decades, this journey ended with a reminder that Milan and Armani are in many respects synonymous: he took his bow in style.