Brioni should be about understated and personal luxury that the wearer enjoys — showing off is not part of his vocabulary. The brand’s design director Norbert Stumpfl continues to carefully fine-tune the collections according to this belief. For fall, he again presented an exquisite lineup that spoke volumes about the craftsmanship of Brioni’s artisans.
The mannequins, placed as if they were meeting and greeting each other in an Italian piazza, conveyed the idea of ease and comfort, donning the soft tailored looks that have become increasingly key to the designer.
“The garments should accompany the body in its movement, they are fluid and deconstructed, super light,” said Stumpfl.
A presentation is the best possible mode of introducing Brioni’s collections since touching the precious fabrics — exemplified by an unlined albino cashmere coat over a silk suit — and seeing the details up close — such as eyelets all made by hand — makes all the difference.
“Perfection is achieved with ease despite the extensive work behind each garment,” said the designer.
Jackets were longer and pants fuller. Shoulders were defined but light at the same time.
There were also shearling coats, calf blousons and crocodile blazers. A no-crease cashmere, silk and linen suit was presented in azure, against a generally muted palette.
For evening, there were shawl-collared dinner jackets in silk moiré and peak-lapel smoking jackets in handwoven jacquard with velvet intarsia. A standout with a brocade effect that took five months to create was made by hand on a 17th-century loom. It was spectacular, and has already been sold to a knowing customer.
