“Sexy. Beautiful quality. Exclusively produced. Garments that you would never think of throwing away.” This was Brunello Cucinelli’s take on the collection he presented on this bustling first day back at a Milan Fashion Week that feels tangibly revived, alive again. Or as the Camera Della Moda president, Carlo Capasa, noted as he passed by, around 80% of events here are happening live (as well as being streamed, of course) and he’s hearing that there has been a 10,000-room upturn in hotel bookings across the city. At least, I think that was the number: Masks do muffle dialogue.
Cucinelli is one of the titan tentpole brands elevating the canopy of quality in this capital of Italian fashion: Today his guests seemed as hungry to clap their eyes upon his garments as they were to reacquaint themselves with his tremendous Tuscan buffet. So it was timely that Cucinelli interjected a stronger sportswear element than we have seen here before, while keeping his fabrication values strictly Solomeo. A bomber and basketball shorts were presented in perforated suede over a founding-year logo hoody, while a high-waisted puffer topped a slim-fitting handwoven skirt embroidered with sequins. Both looks were crowned, surely ironically, with grosgrain sweatbands. Another gently sports-sourced influence was argyle, originally a Scottish knitwear obsession, which was ingeniously translated into feather-trimmed cashmere sweaters or a wonderful hand-fashioned raffia cardigan.
Against this elevated activewear was balanced, moderated animalia, notably in a long cotton silk organza shirtdress with shades of white tiger stripe. There was typically forgiving tailoring, in linen or paillette-coated. Near-unwashed, close-to-indigo denim looked new here, as did the handy neck-pouches that were by-no-means-coincidentally perfect for stashing the new sunglasses line Cucinelli launched in partnership with Oliver Peoples yesterday. Particularly fun was the footwear, especially the luxe perforated sports socks, chunky-soled boat shoes, and a properly chic flat-toed, double-strapped shearling mule.
