At present, every brand in existence courts the cache provided by international boy bands, rockstars, and Rihanna. Their visibility—and millions of passionate fans—mean instant publicity, but what happens when a fashion house cuts out the middleman and makes a music video of its own? For his spring Children of the Discordance show, Hideaki Shikama went old-school MTV, introducing his collection via a catchy clip with a danceable soundtrack. Directed by Keita Suzuki, the video features the inspired dance moves of Japanese performers King of Swag, who break it down to the sound of tracks from Zacari’s Run Wild, Run Free EP while wearing Shikama’s latest pieces.
At first glance, the collection film could be mistaken for the latest video from Justin Bieber, BTS, or any of the streetwear obsessives who currently dominate pop, which is a blessing and a curse. The music, vibe, and exuberant dance moves are compelling enough to make you forget it’s a fashion film. Once you start paying attention, though, there are plenty of eye-catching clothes to take in. The bandana prints that have become a regular part of Shikama’s repertoire are present on gauzy coats and oversized button-downs that beg to be stolen from the menswear section and repurposed as dresses.
Much of Shikama’s previous output has felt influenced by the early days of hip hop style, and you can still see strains of OG streetwear brands like Karl Kani and Cross Colors in his punchy color palette and generous proportions. Shikama dubbed this season “Progress,” a name that reflects the expanded scope and introduction of new archetypes. This go-round, you’ll find skaters, stoners, and SoCal bros in the lineup. It’s through the striped knit two-piece sets, high-waisted pants with button-up sides and drawstring closures, and tie-dye shirts that should come with their own Hacky Sack that you begin to see the advances, Shikama’s move away from the familiar. He has played with some of these concepts before, most notably in fall’s 2021’s exploration of Milanese tailoring techniques, but here they gel into a whole section and clearly defined look.
Despite the changes, the brand’s fundamentals remain intact. The vintage fabrics, upcycled materials, and distinctive use of patchwork are untouched as Shikama continues to develop his staples. All of this is good news for those searching for a great pair of embellished jeans, a windbreaker that isn’t standard issue, and a brand that marches to its own beat.
